Tuesday, 13 March 2012

Day 1: Arrival in Addis Ababa (March 12)


Apologies for not posting this sooner! My first night's stay in Ethiopia was an economical choice: what I got for the money was wonderful, but it didn't include any high-speed/wifi internet. I did, however, get to send an important e-mail over a dialup connection.

March 12 was originally planned as a throwaway day. The end of March 10th and all of the 11th would involve waiting in Dulles International for twelve hours and being in the air for another twelve. I expected to reach my destination and collapse from jet lag, because (as was once again the case) I'm not good at falling asleep while inside of airplanes.

It turned out to be a robust and eventful day instead.


I will attempt to recount what I can; as a first-time jet-lagged arrival in a big African city, I did not trust myself to walk around with an expensive looking camera swinging on its strap, so this entry lacks pictures. Since I do return to Addis Ababa on two other days (including the last of the trip) there is a fair chance I will get snaps in the future.

Flight/Arrival in Addis Ababa
Ethiopian Air is now one of my favourite airlines. The economy-class service was friendly and hospitable, which becomes more important the longer you have to stay in the sky. This twelve hour leg of the trip (Toronto to DC was the first short part) was not the longest flight I have experienced, but it would have felt longer if the quality was poor.

The visa process was much easier than I expected, which suggests that they are streamlining things for tourists from a range of different countries [link]. I arrived there with proof of round trip airfare, a detailed itinerary, booking receipts of every place where I will stay this trip, a Yellow Fever vaccination certificate, all arranged in a neat folder. They looked at my passport and at the contents of an information card handed out by the airline, briefly asked about my purpose of travel and intended length of stay, never asked for the folder, and quickly made me a tourist visa for US$20.

The line was so short and I was out of the airport so quickly that I kept wondering if I took a wrong turn, or used an exit only intended for the crew. Nope! It was just an easy process.

Addis Ababa is a large African city undergoing lots of construction. Frames of new hotels are rising from the ground in various places. The ring road from the airport is being expanded as well.

B&B Report: Family Cozy
On Monday I was lodged at Family Cozy. A single room is inexpensive and they accept US Dollars. The place comes with a restaurant that has a decent Western menu; I have yet to eat any traditional Ethiopian cuisine after one day of travel, but it's definitely in the city if I want it.

There are many features to the place. Their security consists of a big metal fence which can only be opened from inside or by key, and if anybody got past that there is still a locked metal door, all before you consider that the individual rooms have sturdy lock-and-key doors. Hey, without being locked my door still needed a good bodycheck to open.

They have two shared bathrooms on my floor. The important thing here for thrifty travelers is that those bathrooms are equipped with clean hot showers processed by a shiny looking water tank. I still drank bottled water and used the same to wet/clean my toothbrush, but I want to develop good habits for when I leave the big city. That shower felt so good when the last one I had was at 10:30 AM two days prior.

The most important service is the advice they give. You can get maps and great safety info.

Roaming in Addis
"Scammers are artful in this city," said the manager. "No one is likely to rob you with a knife or a gun, but many people on the street may try to use words and polite manners to cheat you."

Outright theft isn't something I encountered. What you do find in Addis are cabs without a meter, making it necessary to haggle with drivers; all of them want to charge you a different rate than they would for residents. Since different rates for residents and tourists happen at proper museums and attractions, the cabbies are following the norm. Some of them want to go farther with that than others, but you can firmly and politely talk them down. I found that most of the drivers asked for the same 100ETB rate and I got used to paying that, but at least I did well for myself in the last case: I offered 100, he grumbled about wanting 150 but accepted 100. Given the conversion rate, I don't find that very expensive, but you may want to get the best value out of principle.

You also find lots of boys who want to shine your shoes, or perhaps wipe car windows. They make their way down the sidewalk carrying buckets and rags. Each one who saw me approached me. I turned them down with the same consistency.

On a more curious note, I'm not yet used to sharing the sidewalk with small herds of goats and donkeys. You don't get that everywhere in the city; I think it was more common in the part of Addis where I stayed. Even then, it was an occasional sight at the most.

What you do get are crosswalks without lights: painted lines on the road telling you where to cross but not when. It's easy for a Torontonian to take for granted something like crosswalk lights complete with a countdown and noises.

National Museum
The first attraction I visited was the National Museum. There was an exhibit in a side building about the charity work of Dr. Abebech Gobena. After looking at that free of charge and inscribing my name in the guestbook, I found the main building. The admission, if converted to US currency, might have been a couple of dollars or less.

I liked what I saw. There were different exhibits on each floor, each with a different purpose.

The first level I viewed had many artifacts from Axum, the place I knocked off my itinerary due to a travel advisory. There were examples of pottery, currency, animal and female figures, some of which were made in 500 BC. Two things Ethiopia has in spades are cultures and religions, all with deep historical roots. Unique flavours of Judaism, Orthodox Christianity, Islam and several different tribal peoples contribute to this wealth.

The second room on the same level had seats, portraits of and ceremonial wear from different emperors and empresses in Ethiopian history. To finish the thought, they did include a portrait of Mengistu, whose regime took power after Selassie's death in 1974. The centerpiece of the room grabbed my attention: a reconstruction of a hominid skull. That would connect better with the last room I saw on the day than any other place in the building.

The third level contained contemporary art works. The fourth level held different exhibits of traditional things: ceremonial costumes, standard hunting equipment and royal hunting equipment.

The lowest level finished the thought started by the hominid skull reconstruction. It held different rooms with fossils and reconstructions with a view to how life looked in the Rift Valley and other areas before the emergence of homo sapiens. The most important statement to me was a room where different reconstructions, skulls and teeth belonging to different hominids and prehistoric great apes were lined up chronologically. The effect was that of a family tree stretching across millions of years, showing the transition from the earliest known upright-walking hominids (going somewhat earlier to an evolutionary ancestor of the gorilla) to the earliest known homo sapiens.

The National Museum showed me a history of Ethiopia and then some, going from contemporary times all the way back to the origins of people in general.

Addis Ababa University/Institute of Ethiopian Studies
Though tired, aching and showing some signs of travel-related dehydration, I soldiered on to Addis Ababa University. I knew only that it too had a museum, and it was the second thing recommended to me by the manager of my Bed and Breakfast.

As I left the cab and walked on campus, I immediately noticed that the grounds looked like a botanical garden with sidewalks and roads. Where I went for postsecondary education, the Common was a large field of grass with a bunch of trees ruled by Canada Geese; I immediately acknowledged that advantage to this place, where students roamed around fascinating grounds.

After a fair deal of walking I reached the museum, where things got clearer in a hurry. These grounds were once palatial, a home to Emperors and Empresses. Invaders liked the place enough to occupy it during the Second World War.

What followed was overwhelming to a tired guy. On the same excursion, I went to a campus full of students; I saw cultural exhibits about different ethnic groups in Ethiopia and their different traditions and beliefs, including folk tales; I saw a gallery of traditional instruments and religious art work; I visited the rooms of Emperor Haile Selassie and Empress Menen, looked at some of their clothes and ceremonial gear and other things left over from when they lived in the building.

After that, I was ready to get back to the B&B. Once I did, I conked out for a few hours, woke up for a shower and dinner, and typed this article.

March 13, I fly to Gondar.

D. Madeley

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