Wednesday, 21 March 2012

Day 5: First day in Bahir Dar (March 16)


The post for today will involve packing a travel first aid kit, a short review of Goha Hotel and first impressions of B&B The Annex. I did also spend time touring the trails around Blue Nile Falls.


Travel First Aid Kit

There are certain health precautions you take when planning a trip to Ethiopia. For me, it began with things I could get at home: vaccinations and prescription medication. A travel doctor can advise you about what you need based on where you plan to stay and for how long. The doctor will look further into things than advisory lists of health warnings which you find on the internet.

Some illnesses are strongly region-concentrated. For example, areas of low elevation such as Bahir Dar carry a greater risk of malaria than high-altitude spots such as Gondar. You can budget for all the vaccines that the internet suggests if you like, but you will probably not spend as much as you expect.

Once you get past that, you should also plan on bringing small packages of over-the-counter meds and other objects which you might need. Examples include bandages, Gravol, Pepto Bismol, Imodium, Advil and Tylenol.

Goha Hotel and B&B The Annex: An early comparison

In the spectrum of Ethiopian accommodation pricing, I would place Goha Hotel at the mid-range. Some of its rooms can be had for US$50/night (format: pay upon check-out). Starting at that price, you get access to a good quality restaurant, a patio with an incredible view, clean bed(s), wireless internet access and a responsive staff.

The hotel was first built in the 70s, but I understand it was recently bought by the Ghion Hotel chain. When I was there, new levels were under construction.

The bathtub drain was backed up something awful, but that is my sole complaint. It was not only a problem in my room, if the complaining guy at the front desk was any indication. For the price, though, you get a good room with clean hot water in the shower and free shuttle service from the airport, and it's a secure property. Drain cleaner would solve that one problem, though they might need lots of it.

I have now arrived in Bahir Dar and I find myself in a strange backyard garden paradise. The Annex is essentially a great quality living space which is rented out to tourists for several months of the year. I am looking at a stylish and functional mosquito net which hangs over my double bed, and to the right of that is a clean and working ensuite bathroom. There's also an internet connection, which is always a good sell for me.

I can't really be sure of my review until the two days are up, but at first glance all indications are great. The comparison is one of price: I have a remarkably better room and shower here, and the price was around 80 Euro for two nights (format: US$10 worth of down payment to book, then the balance in Euro upon check-out).

Blue Nile Falls

After dropping off my bags at The Annex, I took the bumpy ride to Blue Nile Falls. The main road was apparently closed, leaving me with a shorter version of the ride to Simien National Park.

One thing you should immediately know is that much of the water is diverted for a hydroelectric project. If you arrive in the dry season, there is not nearly as much Blue Nile water to see. If you arrive in the rainy season, well, prepare for the rain. Guides will generally be honest with you about this, but it is probably better to know before you solidify any plans.

Even without as much water, there are still some guided trails which run you past some great scenery. If nothing else, the much lower water level exposes some interesting rock formations and gives you access to a particular stretch of exposed clay near which water trickles out from rock. There is a suspension bridge, a Portuguese bridge, many people around to offer you proper bottled water on a hot day (it's more expensive than in Bahir Dar, but honestly, 15ETB or 20ETB is not a problem for me at a little more than a dollar in the 1L latter case—and it encourages the locals to keep doing honest business to improve their situation).

The trail ends with a quick boat trip which returns you to the starting point.

Tomorrow's adventure will involve visiting monasteries on Lake Tana in the morning, and some time spent in the city during the afternoon. Between all the bumpy roads and water travel, I am really glad I packed that anti-nauseant.

D. Madeley

No comments:

Post a Comment